2011年5月16日星期一

Where Water Is an Old Friend, Until It Turns Into a Nemesis

The Army Corps of Engineers opened a portion of the Morganza Spillway on Saturday afternoon to relieve pressure on the levees from a bulging Mississippi River, and millions of cubic feet of water began rushing into the Atchafalaya Basin.


The corps expects to open more of the spillway in the coming days, allowing the water to rise steadily throughout the basin. In a day, maybe two, it will start to engulf this little river community in Cajun country.


Russell Melancon, 55, grew up pulling catfish, bass and crawfish from the Atchafalaya River and the swamp that surrounds it. He married here and is raising a son here.


And now, the place he loves is likely to drown. It could take a month or more for the water to seep back into the swamp behind the house he built with cypress boards and sweat.


Copperhead snakes might slither into the rafters. Alligators will take up residence on sheds. Gardens fat with tomatoes will be gone, and mosquitoes will swarm in such thick clouds that even he, a Cajun with skin as thick as one of those alligators, might not be able to stand it. So why live in a swamp that everyone knew was likely to flood one day?


As Mr. Melancon crated the belongings of three generations of family on Friday and got ready to pack his relatives into campers and cars, the answer was plain as the sticky Louisiana day.


“It’s where we was raised. Where my daddy was raised. Where we make our living,” he said. “Why you are here is something you never even think about. You are this place.”


In what is surely the nation’s slowest-moving natural disaster, the flooded Mississippi has been working its way south through cities and farmland, leaving people homeless and crops in ruins as it hits record levels.


It will end here in southern Louisiana, where the corps decided on Friday to open part of the levee system that holds back the Mississippi and Atchafalaya Rivers. It was the only way, the engineers said, to take the pressure off the levees that protect New Orleans and Baton Rouge.


The move will divert that water into what is essentially the big bathtub that is the Atchafalaya Basin, a stretch of water and land 20 miles wide and 150 miles long and like nowhere else in the United States.


“You can’t have the Cajun culture without the basin,” said Oliver A. Houck, a professor at Tulane Law School who fought to preserve the basin when he was general counsel and vice president of the National Wildlife Federation.


To the north, the water is mostly saturating farmland, leaving it possibly richer in nutrients. But here in the southern half of the basin, home to descendants of the Acadians who settled in the 1700s and where countless Louisiana residents have passed their childhoods fishing and playing among its bayous and backwater lakes, several thousand people could lose everything.


“My husband still doesn’t believe it, but it’s really coming now,” said Deborah LeBlanc, 56, who lives next door to Mr. Melancon, her brother-in-law.


With the rest of the extended family, Ms. LeBlanc spent the weekend finishing up the details of moving their intertwined lives.


The outdoor dogs and Barbecue, the miniature horse, were sent to live with friends whose land is protected by the levee. The shed where Ms. LeBlanc’s father spends his days making catfish nets was dismantled. She even made her son take out her new air-conditioner.


“I asked God today if I’m coming back, and he said yes, so I guess I’ll believe that,” she said. “I can’t see living anywhere else.”


Unlike the Mississippi, which has been walled and manipulated by manufacturing and transportation and other byproducts of urban growth, the Atchafalaya has been allowed to run wild, lacing through the longest stretch of river swamp in the country.


Campbell Robertson contributed reporting from Morganza, La.

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